CHARLES JOURDAIN The Comeback

In line with the steady holding of the return of vintage is the re-blowing up of the Charles Jourdan design house. The iconic shoe brand will be re-launched this October during Paris Fashion Week, and its classic Charles Jourdan le Parfum and Individuelle scents are being snatched up off perfume counters in celebration.

Charles Jourdan, a shoemaker by trade, began a launch of cutting edge women’s footwear in 1919 and was so immediately popular that after only two years, had over 30 people working under him. In the 1930s he was the first shoe designer to place advertisements in high-end fashion magazines, earning his group the title of a “haute couture house.” In 1957, Charles and his two sons opened their first boutique in Paris, and were granted a license to design and manufacture footwear under Christian Dior’s label just two years later.

The Jourdan house gained notoriety for their innovation in material usage for women’s shoes after World War II, and garnered more hype in the 1960s and 70s by pairing up with surrealist photographer Guy Bourdin to promote their line with avant garde advertising. It was around this time as well that they began releasing fragrances, to much the same tune of excitement as their footwear inspired. Their signature scent Charles Jourdan le Parfum is heralded by scent expert Michael Edwards as “the sexiest fragrance of all time”; they released Stiletto in 1996 to recognize the 75th anniversary of the company and to honor Paris, the bottle was shaped like the Eiffel Tower. These were the sorts of inspirations that set the Charles Jourdan house apart.

Charles Jourdan’s signature and Individuelle scents are their best-selling fragrance items; Charles Jourdan le Parfum an irrisistible woody oriental with yummy notes of bamboo, mango, peach, almond, and coffee, given the most sensual edge by its amber and patchouli base. Individuelle by Chareles Jourdan is for individuals who appreciate the elegance of subtlety. A soft fruity floral, Individuelle grazes the nose with an air of sophistication and class, using notes such as amber, jasmine, melon and sandalwood.

After Charles passed away his sons continued running the company, the house gaining unintended publicity by exposure of Imelda Msarcos’ excessive shoe obsession, many in her collection being a Jourdan stiletto. Imelda, the widow of the former president of the Philippines, has been quoted to plead guilty to being the “greediest for the good, true and beautiful.” Jourdan was also a favourite designer and nez of icons such as Brigitte Bardot and Princess Diana. In 1999 their flagship store was moved to Paris’ renowned Champs-Elysées, and shortly after 2000, the house went bankrupt after a retail focus attempt flopped.

In preparation for the re-launch of the label, Joe Ouaknine (head of Charles Jourdan North America) has let slip that while 2009 designs will retain original charm, there will be much emphasis on aggression and flash— always cutting-edge, the Charles Jourdan design house is set to be a hot topic on everyone’s tongues, feet AND wrists this fall!

Pick up the classic treasure that is the signature of this design house’s essence, Charles Jourdan le Parfum .

By Jessica Linnay
Published November 2nd, 2009 13:33

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