Who was the genius at Versace who hired the perfumer Jean-Pierre Bethouart to conjure the Dreamer ? Bethouart has worked magic here, taking Versace’s genetics: its petulant Italian machismo— and adding technical virtuosity (the stuff diffuses perfectly on the skin) to create the scent you’d get if it were possible to combine sugar, steel and graphite. The Dreamer startles you. It’s strangely mouthwatering, like a French pastry crossed with a Thai spice (caramel lemongrass?). Then there’s the hint of ice cream, gunpowder, star fruit, hot cocoa and blood-orange peel crushed on wet rock. There is more creativity in a thimbleful of the Dreamer than in a gallon of almost anything else.