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LIGHT BLUE BY DOLCE & GABBANA

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ Transcendent

For anyone who has ever walked into a lumberyard and stopped dead in his tracks at the smell: that beautiful, rich, unforgettable smell of mahogany, pine plank, oak, particle board, cedar dust et al— your fragrances have arrived.

Then there is perhaps the most brilliant way to use wood: render it invisible. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who frequent Sicily, asked the perfumer Olivier Cresp to locate its soul in scent. Interestingly, Cresp’s father traded in raw perfume materials and would take the boy to Sicily for the harvest. Not surprisingly, then, Cresp’s formula for the women’s scent Light Blue contains about 15 percent of the purest natural Sicilian lemon-peel essence. He mated it to a tart Granny Smith apple (the synthetics cis-3 Hexenol, Liffarome and cis-3 hexenyl acetate) and added Delta Muscenone (the smell of human skin). But the key is wood: three synthetics (Z11, Ambrox and Norlimbanol) as well as plenty of natural cedars. You don’t consciously register the wood, but its smooth surface deepens and warms the citrus. One of the most perfectly executed perfumes of the past decade, it is almost insanely good.


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Published By Chandler Burr
on April 28th, 2010 09:40



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